Thursday, January 28, 2010

Khmer Food

Cambodian food is little known but it's delicious

Some guide books say Cambodia's cuisine is nothing to write home about. Now, that is completely untrue.

A thousand years ago the Khmer Kingdom, which centred on Angkor, ruled an empire that included most of south-east Asia. Hence, many of the Thai and other regional dishes have their roots in Khmer cooking from that time!

frizz restaurant, 67 Street 240, Phnom Penh

Time consuming but straight- forward, all in nuances and yet simple to prepare. That is how most chefs describe Cambodian cuisine.

The art of Cambodian cooking is not so much in the ingredients as in the way of combining herbs and seasonings.

Buying fresh ingredients daily

Quite often Cambodian cooking is compared to Thai cooking. Indeed, there are many similarities between the two countries, but there are significant differences as well.

Khmer recipes go back to the days before the introduction of the chilli, so are consequently much milder than most Asian food. The chilli was unknown in Asia until the 16th century when it arrived with the Portuguese.

Thai cooks use red chiles a lot, where Cambodians prefer to spice up their dishes by hot side servings, so everyone can adjust the taste to their personal liking.

Take Cambodian curry. The red color suspects a spicy dish. Well, it's not, it's actually quite sweet. The redness comes from mkak seeds, not chiles.

Furthermore, Cambodians use sweet potatoes in curries, whereas other Asian countries use potatoes merely as a starch.

Often foreigners ask where to buy a Cambodian cookbook and what exactly is the best one? To get started we have some recipes for you.

frizz restaurant, 67 Street 240, Phnom Penh

Time consuming but straight- forward, all in nuances and yet simple to prepare. That is how most chefs describe Cambodian cuisine.

The art of Cambodian cooking is not so much in the ingredients as in the way of combining herbs and seasonings.

Buying fresh ingredients daily

Quite often Cambodian cooking is compared to Thai cooking. Indeed, there are many similarities between the two countries, but there are significant differences as well.

Khmer recipes go back to the days before the introduction of the chilli, so are consequently much milder than most Asian food. The chilli was unknown in Asia until the 16th century when it arrived with the Portuguese.

Thai cooks use red chiles a lot, where Cambodians prefer to spice up their dishes by hot side servings, so everyone can adjust the taste to their personal liking.

Take Cambodian curry. The red color suspects a spicy dish. Well, it's not, it's actually quite sweet. The redness comes from mkak seeds, not chiles.

Furthermore, Cambodians use sweet potatoes in curries, whereas other Asian countries use potatoes merely as a starch.

Often foreigners ask where to buy a Cambodian cookbook and what exactly is the best one? To get started we have some recipes for you.

Our Menue


Together with our move to Street 240, we have updated our menu with more signature and traditional Cambodian dishes and international cuisine.

E.g. we have added tasty salads and delicious desserts. Here we introduce you to our Khmer menu, international dishes and our specialties.

You can download our entire menu as a .pdf-file (521 Kb). We also do deliveries in central Phnom Penh, see our Deliveries page.

menu khmer dishes, frizz restaurant phnom penh

Cambodian cuisine is finally beginning to win recognition from food lovers for its subtle flavours and its wide range of unique indigenous dishes. Several factors set it apart from neighbouring Thailand and Vietnam.

A Cambodian meal will usually include a soup, or samlor, served alongside the main courses.

Cambodians at an extensive meal

Freshwater fish plays a large part in the diet of most Cambodians, and finds its way into many recipes. With fishermen bringing their catches in daily from the vast Tonle Sap Lake, diners can be assured of freshness.

We use pepper from Kampot in our dishes, one of the best in the world!

Cambodia is blessed with many types of exotic fruits including mangos, mangosteens, rambutans, papaya, dragonfruit and the infamously smelly durian. Of course you can try our fruit salad, but fruits are also used in some of our main courses.

international dishes, frizz restaurant phnom penh

Sometimes one in a group doesn't want to eat Khmer food, or you just feel like a dish with no rice. That's why we have a selection of international dishes, which also have gained popularity among people living in Phnom Penh.

Besides pastas, we have a very good Steak & Guinnes Pie, made like your mom did at home. We are also quite proud of our burritos (beef, chicken or vegetarian). Furthermore, we have a range of salads and sandwiches.

See our International menu.

menu specials, frizz restaurant phnom penh

Our daily specials include Chhnang Phnom Pleung, the Cambodian barbecue aka Volcano Pot. Our restaurant is The Home of the Volcano Pot.

And then there's our Fish Amok. Ever tried it somewhere else? Not like we have it!

Another signature dish is the stir fried beef on a cole slaw and with orange sauce. Delicious!

Weekly, we have one or two extra specials advertised on the blackboard in our restaurant.

Ratanakiri

Ratanakiri, Cambodia Travel Guide

The northeastern corner of Cambodia, or the province of Ratanakiri, is gradually gaining tourist interest and rightfully so! It's abound with lush jungle, rivers and waterfalls.

For the exploration of the region, your only choice is the provincial capital Banlung. Not a particularly interesting town with wide dirt roads reminiscent of the American Wild West. But, the surroundings of Banlung are beautiful and worth exploring.

See also: Shopping for gems in Ratanakiri, Cambodia

Minority Hill Tribes, Ratanakiri, Cambodia minority people ratanakiri at the market

Hidden high into the primordial northeastern forests of Ratanakiri are the 12 highland hill-tribe peoples known as the Khmer Loeu - a term coined by King Sihanouk. Practising animism and slash and burn farming, the Brou, Jarai, Krung, and Tampuan tribes, among others, still hunt with poison darts and crossbows. Many also still wear traditional costume - Krung women in sarongs and bare-breasted Brou women with tattooed faces and ivory tusk earrings in their elongated earlobes.

Hill Tribes - groom's house Ratanakiri - Cambodia

A peaceful people, they have had more than their share of ill fortune. During the Second Indochina War, American B-52's bombed large portions of the hilltribes' territory in the Americans' futile attempt to cut the Ho Chi Minh Trail, which continued to run relatively undisturbed by the wanton destruction. However, the bombing not only killed and injured many tribes people, it also drove away the animals they hunted and destroyed their farmlands. Then - though the Khmer Rouge had found shelter in these mountains while the Communist guerillas were building their forces - once Pol Pot's despotic regime gained power, the KR returned to Ratanakiri and systematically wiped out half of the tribes-people.

Less than 60,000 hilltribes people now remain and their numbers are further threatened by a high mortality rate from malaria, diarrhea and childbirth complications. Their lives and livelihoods are now also threatened by the encroachment of logging into their territory.

Kirirom National Park

Kirirom, a relaxing retreat from Phnom Penh

Initially established as a holiday resort and tourist city in 1945, the area was named Kirirom namely "Mountain of joy" by the King at the suggestion of a monk from Phnom Penh.

A hill of 700m covers an area of 35,000 hectares.

Especially interesting is the Chambok Ecotourism site.

A large new concrete sign on the right 88 kilometers from Phnom Penh on National Route No. 4 makes finding the turnoff very easy.

This beautiful national park area was once a favorite resort for the influential, the powerful and wealthy and a retreat for King Sihanouk himself.

There are not many types of larger wildlife in evidence on Kirirom, but it is an ideal spot to glimpse some of the Kingdom's unique birdlife and birdwatchers even come from overseas to visit. Park rangers charge foreigners a 20,000 riel ($5) entrance fee.

The natural resort is decorated with many categories of pines imported from Japan.

The area is suitable for a day trip from Phnom Penh, but it is also possible to arrange accommodation. Near the main entrance the rather expensive Kirirom Hillside Resort (Tel: 855 (0)12 970 098) is situated.

The road rises steeply but is paved and in quite good condition. After about 10 kilometers you'll reach Kirirom Guesthouse and Restaurant. Run by a Cambodian family, be prepared that nobody speaks a word of English here. A few words of Khmer come in handy. The basic rooms are situated apart from the restaurant.

great views in kirirom national park cambodia great views in kirirom national park cambodia

The Kirirom Restaurant offers ordinary, but tasty Khmer fare. Again a little pricy for a Cambodian restaurant ($3 - 5, rice not included). Heineken is the only beer on the menu, but there is Hennessy and Johnnie Walker.

The restaurant is perched on a high point, offering great sunset views of the pine forest and mountains from an open deck eating area on the roof. Unfortunately, when I was there, the air was filled with a smoky smell, caused by ground vegetation fires. You'll see that in many places in Kirirom, especially at the end of the dry season.

Kirirom National Park: ground fires

Garbage

There is also quite some garbage in the park. It is interesting to see the numerous "Do not litter, throw trash into bins" signs. The local tourists don't heed to the signs well and much litter can still be found in the rivers and about.

rubbish in Kirirom

The NGO Chambok Community-based Ecotourism (T:012-355272) tries to make the locals aware of preserving their natural resources and at the sime time generating some income by eco-tourism:

Chambok Ecotourism site is just next to the Kirirom National Park. Be prepared for some exercise (4 km trek), interaction with local villagers, and discovery of Cambodia's unique natural biodiversity. (see pictures)

All of the revenue from the site supports the local community and their efforts to conserve forest and wildlife.

Furthermore, they offer the possibility to have a lunch in a villager's house prepared by local women, including fruit and coconut at the waterfall.

Entrance fees

  • Foreigner adult $3
  • Foreigner child $1
  • Cambodian adult 1000 riel
  • Cambodian child free

Bokor Mountain Kampot


Beautiful views from top of Bokor Mountain, Kampot

Cambodia is almost completely flat with the exceptions of the south and north east. During the French occupation, the French built a luxury resort town on the very top of one of these mountains called the Bokor Resort.

In 2008 work has begun to build a new upscale resort on the top. The road to Bokor Hill therefor is closed, but it's unclear for how long. You can still hike up the mountain though.

The road up to this place used to be incredibly bad: bumping and humping all the way. Those times are over, as the first phase in building the new resort is upgrading the road to the top.

The views along this road are beautiful. Bokor Mountain is part of the larger Bokor National Park, a thick jungle sprawl of giant ferns and thick vegetation. Tigers are rare (and very shy) but are said to live on the mountain, as well as leopards, Asiatic black bears, and slow lorises and other monkeys, as well as a unique grouping of jungle birds, snakes, crawlies, and even a small population of Asian elephants.

To be honest, the only chance you'll have to see any of the wildlife is by hiking through the national park. Which, incidentally, is now the only way to get to the top of Bokor Mountain. So, there are some advantages to the road being closed.

Old Royal Palace along road up to Bokor Mountain, Kampot, Cambodia French colonial church, Bokor Mountain, Cambodia

Bokor Hill was not only admired by the French. After they granted independence to Cambodia, King Sihanouk laid eyes on the area and build his own villa a few kilometers from the summit. It's now only a ruine, called the Black Palace, although it's really guite a small villa.

The location is beautiful though and while you're there you can imagine the Royal Family sitting there looking over Bokor Park while sipping a glass of wine.

Next, you'll pass a small temple and a turn off to a small waterfall. This waterfall is only worth seeing during or immediately after the rainy season, the rest of the year it's (almost) dry.

Going further up the mountain, you'll first pass the rangers station on the left with the old French catholic church on the right. Then, on the summit, there's the old casino. You'll have to hurry to see it in its decayed state, as this casino will be part of the new resort complex being built.

Bamboo Island


Bamboo bungalows on Koh Russey, Bamboo IslandBesides boasting a famous name and beautiful white sand beaches there are many wonders of natural beauty hidden in the islands near the coastal town of Sihanoukville.

One such island is Koh Russei (Bamboo Island), where picturesque beaches and the fresh sea air soothes tourists souls, sends them into a state of relaxation and melts their cares away.

The presence of visitors has created business opportunities for the local people. There are currently two accomodations available: Bimbamboo Bungalows ($10/night) and Koh Ru Bungalows, both set right on the beach.

The one and a half hour trip to Koh Russei from Ochheuteal Beach only costs $20 per round trip for groups of one to three guests. Groups of four or more pay only $6 per person.

“In the future, I plan to run visitors to Koh Russei three times per day, and I hope to lower the costs. We will continue to improve our service and comfort in order to attract more tourists to the region. We also have plans to enlarge our guesthouse.”

Captain Phoan also takes tourists to the islands around Sihanoukville. “At least two or three foreign clients per week hire my boat to transport them to Koh Russei. Many of the islands near Sihanoukville have beautiful sand beaches. Each has its own unique personality and beauty.”

Bamboo Island off Sihanoukville coast

Sihanoukville Tourism Department Director Mr. Teng Huy said, “Many tourists already know about Sihanoukville, and they praise its natural sand beaches.

But they are unaware that we have many islands which are hiding out in the sea. These fantastic islands are waiting to welcome them. I strongly believe they will be overwhelmed by their natural beauty.”

Royal Navy sailor, Sin Prin is stationed at the Koh Russei base. “We have only recently allowed tourists to come to Koh Russei. In the past only government soldiers received permission to catch fish and take holidays here because of the Kompong Som Navy base. Now we have opened the island up so that all types of people can have an opportunity to spend their holidays here.”

Relaxing on Koh Russei, Bamboo Island

“The most beautiful beach on the island is a secluded 600 meter long stretch of pure white sand. It features two smooth natural stairs which lead down to the water. Sea waves break on the coast, and combine with the song of birds in the nearby trees to form a relaxing symphony.”

Southern Cambodia Rabbit Island Kep


Lovely get-away: Rabbit Island, Kep, CambodiaKoh Tonsay or Rabbit Island is located about 4.5 Kilometers southwest of Kep. Tourists are drawn to the two beautiful white sand beaches. The sea here is shallow and has a long slope, making Koh Tonsay excellent for swimming.

There is no electricity, so at night it is just you, your torch, perhaps a beach bonfire and about a million stars overhead.

Ko Tonsay, or Rabbit Island as it is commonly known as, is a lovely and truly idyllic little island that sits offshore from Kep, just thirty minutes away by hired boat.

Koh Tonsay is two square kilometers. In the 960's it was used as a place to rehabilitate criminals, who were also used to defend the island. Horse cart paths and wooden, thatch roofed motels were also constructed during this time. Most of this infrastructure has been destroyed. Today, seven families live on the island. They earn their living by fishing and growing coconut trees.

Rabbit Island has become a popular daytrip for tourists. Within sight of land, this lushly forested spot has swimming and snorkeling opportunities. At the sea bottom area a variety of corals, sea animals and plants and is just a pleasant place to while away some time.

The main beach where the boats anchor in line with coconut palms, hammocks, lazy chairs and a handful of fresh seafood joints serving up some outstanding seafood -- it doesn't get fresher than here!

Away from it all on Rabbit Island, Kep, Cambodia boat trip from Kep to Rabbit Island

There's a delightful lady and her family who have a little restaurant there with great seafood - very inexpensive - and rent bamboo shacks out for about $3 per day - very basic with mattress and mosquito net, a short walk to the toilet. When you ask for some crab in garlic and pepper you could well end up wading out to help the owner select the crabs!

The beach is clean and you definitely feel far, far away from it all.

On Rabbit Island you are away from it all

There is no electricity, so at night it is just you, your torch, perhaps a beach bonfire and about a million stars overhead. No karaoke, no motorbikes, no noise, no problem.

There are opportunities for walks to other little bays on the island and the swimming straight off the main beach is excellent, otherwise fishing trips may be able to be organised through your boatman. Try to rustle up a few people for the trip.

Pchum Ben Ancestor's Festival Cambodia


Bonn Pchum Ben is the festival held for commemoration of the spirits of the dead.

The highlight is on the 15th day of the waxing moon during the tenth month of the Khmer calendar, called Pheaktrobotr.

Pchum Ben offerings

Date in 2010: October 7-8-9

The festival does not just begin and end on one day. In fact, it lasts 15 days, each of which is called a day of Kan Ben. A Ben is an offering. The word of Ben is derived from Sanskrit pinda, or balls of rice to be offered to the souls of the dead.

During the first 14 days, people take turns offering food to the monks of their local pagoda in the hope that their offering will reach the souls of their ancestors and friends by virtue of the monks' sermons.

Ancient traditions Ancestor's Festival Cambodia

Inscriptions in stone left by King YaƧovarman (889-910) tell us that he built numerous monasteries during that period, and that pinda were offered on a monthly basis, not only to "abandoned souls" - souls with no family to make offerings to them - but also to souls of combatants who had died for their country.

Pchum Ben offerings

Rich and poor

The present-day Ben are balls of glutinous rice, cooked in coconut milk and mixed with various ingredients according to local customs. The way a Ben is held also differs slightly from locality to locality. The final day of Pchum Ben is the most important for all followers. On this day, at every pagoda around the country, the mass collection of offerings (Bens) is dedicated to the souls of ancestors. If this duty is ignored, it is believed that the soul is cursed and will haunt the neglectful descendents for the rest of the year.

Visit a pagoda during Pchum Ben

In the early morning of the last day of the Pchum Ben Festival, visitors can join the throngs at the pagodas and take photos of local people of all ages in traditional costume. Women especially, don their best traditional dress, and come wearing their silk, embroidered blouses and scarves, bearing offerings, candles and incense.

Num Onsam and sweet Num Korm (steamed cakes wrapped in banana leaves) are taken to pagodas during the festival to share among participants. Num Onsam is a kind of cylindrical cake of glutinous rice wrapped around a mixture of pork, salt and other ingredients. Num Korm is shaped like a pyramid and made of rice-flour and filled with a coconut and palm sugar mixture.

Money offered to monks goes towards the construction or renovation of temples and community development such as the construction of bridges and schools, tree planting, or as donations to needy families.

Khmers believe that fraternal feelings are fostered with the exchange of food and Num Onsam and Num Korm cakes. This ensures that visitors to any pagoda during the Pchum Ben festival will be warmly welcomed and invited to taste these cakes and enjoy the festivities.

Khmer New Year


Water throwing and talc powder rubbing at Wat PhnomThe Khmer New Year is one of the most important holidays in Cambodia. Also celebrated in Thailand and other Buddhist countries, these days are filled with water throwing at passers-by and other games. Many people confuse this with the Water Festival, but then there is no water throwing.

For the best atmosphere in Phnom Penh, go to the area around Wat Phnom. There are free concerts at night.

The Khmer New Year festival originated from Bramhmanism, a part of Hinduism, which was a religion that Khmer believed in before Buddhism. Later on Buddhism became associated with the festival and then took all the important roles in the festivity.

Khmer New Year is celebrated for three days. Dates in 2010: 14-15-16 April

Showers and Games during khmer new yeargames at Wat Phnom during Khmer New Year, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The third day is called Leung Sakk, the day the year really starts. In the evening, to complete the New Year festival, the Khmer need to perform the last ceremony, called "Pithi Srang Preah", which means giving a special bath or a special shower to Buddha statues, the monks, elders, parents, and grandparents to apologize for any mistake we have done to them and to gratify them. Nowadays, during all of Khmer New Year the Khmer have much fun by spreading out water to each other.

Khmer New Year Games

Throughout Khmer New Year, street corners often are crowded with friends and families enjoying a break from routine, filling their free time dancing and play. Typically Khmer games help maintain one's mental and physical dexterity. The body's blood pressure, muscle system and brain all are challenged and strengthened in the name of Why not try them for yourself?

Tres

A game played by throwing and catching a ball with one hand while trying to catch an increasing number of sticks with the other hand. Usually, pens or chopsticks are used as the sticks to be caught.

Chol Chhoung

A game played especially on the first nightfall of the Khmer New Year by two groups of boys and girls. Ten or 20 people comprise each group, standing in two rows opposite each other. One group throws the "chhoung" to the other group. When it is caught, it will be rapidly thrown back to the first group. If someone is hit by the "chhoung," the whole group must dance to get the "chhoung" back while the other group sings.

Chab Kon Kleng

A game played by imitating a hen as she protects her chicks from a crow. Adults typically play this game on the night of the first New Year's day. Participants usually appoint a person with a strong build to play the hen leading many chicks. Another person is picked to be the crow. While both sides sing a song of bargaining, the crow tries to catch as many chicks as possible as they hide behind the hen.

Boy meets girld during games at Khmer New YearBoy meets girld during games at Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

A game played by two groups of boys and girls. Each group throws their own "angkunh" to hit the master "angkunhs," which belong to the other group and are placed on the ground. The winners must knock the knee of the losers with the "angkunh." "Angkunh" is the name of an inedible fruit seed, which looks like the knee bone.

Leak Kanseng

A game played by a group of children sitting in circle. Someone holding a "kanseng" (Cambodian towel) twisted into a round shape walks around the circle while singing a song. The person walking secretly tries to place the "kanseng" behind one of the children. If that chosen child realizes what is happening, he or she must pick up the "kanseng" and beat the person sitting next to him or her.

Spraying water - Khmer New Year - Cambodia

Bay Khom

A game played by two children in rural or urban areas during their free time. Ten holes are dug in the shape of an oval into a board in the ground. The game is played with 42 small beads, stones or fruit seeds. Before starting the game, five beads are put into each of the two holes located at the tip of the board. Four beads are placed in each of the remaining eight holes.

The first player takes all the beads from any hole and drops them one by one in the other holes. He or she must repeat this process until they have dropped the last bead into a hole lying beside an empty one.

Then they must take all the beads in the hole that follows the empty one. At this point, the second player begins to play. The game ends when all the holes are empty. The player with the greatest number of beads wins the game.

 
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